Christmas at remote Burmese Refugee Camp Nu Po

Another wonderful Blog report from Team member Lisa McCoy. We are still reeling from this trip in the most positive of ways. We will catch up on our Blog reports...promise...presently swamped!
Respect.
Asad

By Lisa McCoy
Five miles away from the Burma border under the watchful eye of the Burmese military junta is Refugee Camp Nu Po; not a place many would consider spending Christmas. But for almost 14,000 Burmese refugees, this remote Thai-controlled jungle encampment has been their home for 10 years. Astoundingly, this is where ‘Project Enlighten’ founders Asad Rahman, Olivia Lorge and I spent one of the most heartfelt Christmas’ ever. Their gift of friendship and hospitality is one that will never leave our hearts and souls.

The residents of Camp Nu Po rarely see western volunteers because the arduous 7-hour journey to this camp must be made in the back of a ‘songthaew’ - the Thai rural pick-up truck that acts as a bus by conveniently placing bench seats along either side of the box.

The 140km trip to Camp Nu Po is spent mostly winding round border hills which resulted in even the hardiest of locals pitching up their stomach contents over the side of the truck. The first photo on the left clearly displays the misery experienced by young local man on our journey. Every half hour someone, usually a child, succumbed to vomiting, which in turn nauseated others. At one point, my elbow which was placed foolishly outside of the truck received a spray of vomit from a young child sitting upwind from me.

To make matters worse, the songthaew picked up everybody at every stop until the every inch of the canopy, and box was covered with passengers. This cramped and nauseating trip is one that the three of us will never ever forget. A map of Thailand’s Burmese Refugee Camps can be found at this link which clearly details the remote location of this camp: http://www.reliefweb.int/rw/rwb.nsf/db900sid/SHIG-7L9HLA?OpenDocument . We clearly viewed Burmese armed military en route as we traveled along Burma’s border.

Our visit to the camp had to be Okayed by the Thai Camp Commander previous to our arrival. The Camp Commander is a Ministry of Thailand Thai official who is specifically trained for camp control. Refugee camps experience domestic violence, child abuse, drinking and fights on a continuous basis. It’s up to the Camp Commander and the delegated Burmese refugees in specific roles underneath him to keep peace in the camp – not an easy job when you have 14,000 people living in small bamboo houses set 4 feet apart from one another.

Camp Nu Po began as most refugee camps did, when a group of Burmese IDP (Internally Displaced People) fled across the Burma border and built the first few houses 10 years ago. It wasn’t long until the population grew to its present 14,000. Nu Po isn’t the biggest camp in Tak province either – Mae La Refugee Camp has over 37,000! Refugees from Tak province are resettled in the United States, while refugees from other provincial camps are chosen for resettlement in other countries.

We were able to meet with the Camp Commander on Christmas morning, and through an interpreter we were able to ask many questions which helped unravel for us some of the mysteries that surround the whole refugee process. Why do some refugees get chosen for resettlement in a third country and others seem to wait for years in camps? Why are some refugees issued identity cards and others not? From what I learned, it is the UNHCR (United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees) and the Thai government who make many of these decisions, but their criteria stills remains somewhat clouded to me.

We arrived at the camp about 4pm on Christmas Eve. We were taken to the main office where we were required to turn in our passports for the duration of our stay – a normal requirement for security purposes. We were promptly escorted to one home and given a glass of water. After 10 minutes we were taken to one of the few camp ‘restaurants’, where we happily gobbled down the meal that was cooked up for us – we had not eaten since 7am! From there we were taken back to the first house for some after dinner treats. Then we were taken to the camps two schools, where we were served fruits and beverages again! So few westerners visit this camp – our visit was considered one of the highlights of the year for them – three foreign visitors at once, and at Christmas! We were also treated to a special musical rehearsal for the Karen New Year celebrations that were taking place in a few days.

Yes – it all sounds so fine and wonderful how we were treated at this camp – but don’t get me wrong; the need in this camp is great. This camp lacks the many projects by NGO’s that many of the less remote camps benefit from. Nu Po has a serious lack of drinking water. The Burmese were so proud of their one water purification system, but it does not suffice for the camp’s population. There is no electricity and few generators to charge the few batteries in the camp. One organization has installed a solar power panel, but more is needed.

Another great need is in the schools. The one school which teaches kindergarten through grade eleven curriculum has 600 students. It has no textbooks. The students have to copy lessons into exercise books. There is no loose-leaf paper for the teachers to make tests or exams with. There is no photocopier. There are no computers for the school. There is no library. We visited the nursery school on Christmas morning where 13 small children eagerly gleaned through the handful of tattered childrens picture books it possessed. Those small children treated us to a chorus of 4 nursery songs perfectly performed in English. It’s amazing what they have done with so little, but the eagerness these children display for education overcomes their lack of materials. It should not have to be so. The second school is in just as bad shape. We had brought with us enough exercise books, pencils, sharpeners and rulers for about 100 children.

It was at the second school that we were treated to a special Christmas Eve celebration put on by some of the adult students who were eager to be able to spend some time with us practicing conversation in English. The room was decorated with a hand-colored life-size Santa, Christmas tree and hand-lettered banners. Again, many treats were served to us! It was one of the most joyous times of comradeship that we had ever experienced.

I happened to have brought along a recent edition of a Bangkok newspaper. When I gave it to one of the teachers, he could not contain his excitement, as they rarely see any publications from ‘outside’ in English. I made a mental note to bring along some more upon my return; maybe some National Geographic magazines as well. Oh yes – I am coming back! Along with the many other needs, the teachers emphasized to me that along with books their other biggest desire is to see more volunteer teachers coming in to help teach English. They would be happy for whatever time a volunteer could commit to this. So, at our meeting with the Camp Commander, I told him that I would return in a few weeks to volunteer for a week or two. I would be living with one of the families in the camp. As I had on Christmas Eve; I would be sleeping on a mat on the floor with some blankets. Because of its high elevation, Camp Nu Po evenings can be quite cold. We have made some wonderful friendships at the camp, I’m eager to return to spend some more time with my new-found friends.

My dear friend Kipp!

Through the years there are very few things to me that stay constant in my life. That is not necessarily a bad thing, I enjoy change and all the opportunities it can bring, and this is the yin. The constants in my life have been less pronounced but alas rarely change, like the 49ers and their lack of a Playoff appearance. One constant in my life that I truly count my blessings for are my strong and valued friendships. One of these friendships sprung a new branch on our apple tree! This new branch of our tree will bare a bountiful fruit for many more years to come. Allow me to explain.

I first met Kipp Morrill in the mid 80’s. We both started on the Organized Fire Crews in Chico California. Young and enthusiastic firefighters ready to take on the world, boy we were young! Through the years we have grown and matured in our lives and our profession’s. We have a fostered a friendship based on humility and respect in and around our circle of friends. We have gone years without seeing one another, as our jobs have taken us across this wonderful landscape we call America. We made time to stay in contact via email or phone, even if it was once every six months, the fact remained the friendship was based with solid roots and this tree was growing!

Over the last two years Kipp and his lovely and amazing wife Miriam had began to ask a few questions on our work in Cambodia, then a few more questions, then a donation, then a laptop for Mr. Togh, then more questions. A most gracious fundraiser dinner spearheaded by Brad and Sandy Azevedo at the Morrill’s home turned into one of my proudest moments. Kipp and Miriam joining us in Cambodia. To share our passion and work for all things Cambodian was a true treat. Many questions were asked about their role here and how they can help. My answer was always the same, “once you get here and meet the people and immerse yourself in the culture, you will know how to help, once you spend little time here, you will know, you will know”.

So Kipp and Miriam spent two weeks with us in Cambodia. They visited Mr. Sao’s village and played with children and learned how to harvest rice. They walked the proposed ground of the future home of Bakong Technical College. They shared with us our first visit to Mr. Togh’s completed school and we watched in amazement as our PE scholarship recipient Mr. Chumno was teaching with a passion and grace. Kipp and Miriam got to spend lots of quality time with Mrs. Chantrea and Mrs. Naret, our two wonderful and extremely gifted female scholarship recipients. They took all three out shopping for books and book bags, calculators and dictionaries. They shared the love and warmth of our wonderful hosts Yarann and Sa Eng and children.

At the end of the day as Kipp and Miriam have now left back home for the cold and rain of Northern California, many things remain the same. As I call from Thailand to check in with Mr. Sao or Mr. Togh, the questions are the same. “If you talk to brother Kipp, please say hello and high-five from us”.

Thank you Kipp and Miriam for allowing Olivia and I to share a little bit of what we love so much about Cambodia with you. I venture to say there is a new branch growing on our tree, it will thrive and grow like our friendship! We love and respect you both immensely!

Early December 2008
As we walk the streets of Siem Reap it is noticeably quieter these days. The economic crisis has left not one stone unturned, even here in Southeast Asia. The massive rush of tuk-tuks, trucks, bicycles and pedestrians that packed the roads in previous years has ebbed. To an untrained eye, it would seem as if everything is normal. Our eyes see empty Tuk-tuks line the streets as their drivers meekly ask the small but steady stream of tourists if they need rides as they meander by. It seems as if there is a quiet desperation in voices and tearful longing in their eyes. Of all places traveled, my heart hurts the most for those who live in poverty here, in this beautiful part of the world. I know there are many who are suffering back home in the United States, but for whatever reason I don’t feel that the desperation runs as deep as it does in the souls of the people here in Southeast Asia.

There is a part of me that knows, as many in the U.S. know, that if all else fails and we hit rock bottom financially, we have social assistance in the form of many government programs. If we become unemployed, the government will give us a small stipend to help us get back on our feet. If we need shelter or go hungry, there are supplemental Welfare Programs for qualifying individuals. There are even programs that will give families basic food supplies to keep bellies full, I know this all too well, as I was a child who grew up in this system for several years. I remember standing in long welfare lines with my mother, to receive blocks of cheddar cheese, loaves of bread and powdered non-fat milk. We were modern America’s beggars, 21st Century survivors of the unpleasant circumstances of third-rate poverty. We lived on re-hydrated dried canned foods and the basic sundries that could be afforded. When I was younger, I couldn’t imagine anyone poorer, though my soul felt rich with my mother’s optimism. She utilized the government support while getting her Associates Degree, so she could better provide for her five children. She was able to rise above adversity. I feel most of the world is doubtful of poverty being so extreme in the United States but witnessing it, first hand, the dire poverty left me bewildered.

There are rural places all over the United States in which people live on hardly anything, Gary District Number Nine was one of these places in 1996. It was just outside of Welch, West Virginia in which I saw one of the most extreme forms of poverty, in the U.S. Small shacks and simply built homes lined the creek-side, simple trenches between the dwellings wreaked of raw sewage that spewed from the bowels of the structures and ran down to the creek. It was the same creek that the children swam in and families fished from for food. Those who were considered “better off” occupied nicer homes; many homes were left abandoned after the collapse of the coal mining industry. At that point in my life I had never seen the happiness and beauty of poverty before, nor such harsh conditions. Despite the odds delivered, people were inherently happy with the little they had, not wanting for more but extremely grateful for what was received. The community rallied together to support those who were worst off by providing vegetables, fruit, canned goods and boxed food. I was working with AmeriCorps*NCCC during this time, helping in many ways. One of our projects was to make improvements on homes that needed insulation for the winter…I remember there being basic shacks with nothing more than carpet covered hearth floors, thin boards for walls and tin roofs. These are homes I didn’t expect to be in Modern day America, but there they were. The children ran around covered in dirt, half-naked and unsupervised. Their parents sat waiting for whatever help they could receive, oblivious or living in fear of opportunities that lay elsewhere. We were there to help; we were a volunteer organization that was there to serve the community with compassion and respect. Americans helping poverty ridden America.

Sound familiar? Poverty has no defining lines. It is everywhere. Extremes are found in every reach of the planet, though many do not have the support that we have in the U.S.A. Project Enlighten is trying to help build this kind of support for communities around the world. Our purpose is to stimulate a self-help process in communities that have hardship without changing cultural identities. We want to change an ethos of receiving simple charity by inspiring others to become more involved in education, community volunteerism and to encourage them to learn to stand on their own. It's about more than just education, it's about finding a way to survive and prosper beyond education. As the economic crisis comes to a great crescendo, I wonder what the impact will be on the countries that have become so reliant on international support. There are so many that are in an even more fragile state than most western countries. Perhaps there will be a much different story to share next year.

Arriving in Pakse, Laos was done with more ease than I imagined it would be. For $35 dollars, a passport photo and a properly filled out visa form, an American can obtain a 30 day Visa on arrival at the international airports in Laos. Pakse was an even quieter place than Siem Reap and as we made our way to the taxi counter, it was evident that our stay would be much different in this sister country. We set out for the Pakse Hotel in the central part of town where we enjoyed sticky rice, laap (meat cooked and served minced with lime juice, an arrangement of herbs, peppers and local spices) and Beer Lao dark. As we settled in to the slower pace of the country, we contemplated what the countryside would be like. We were anxious for our bus-ride north to the Khammouane Province. We were looking forward to exploring a part of Lao we had yet to travel to.

Our friend, Phouva, a fellow Forest Service Firefighter grew up in Navangthai Village in Central Laos. It was in his early teens that he immigrated to the United States of America in search of better education and greater opportunities. In a short period of time, he was able to take command of the English language and move on to graduate from Humboldt University. He seeks to help his home country in whatever way possible, starting with investment in the local education system that he grew up in. His wonderful village is in need of improvements on the school facilities. They have three schools in the area that are in dire need of repair. In one of our meetings, one teacher innocently asked if the schools in America were like theirs. Our honest reply was no, that we hadn’t seen schools so exposed to the elements and lacking libraries in the U.S. We, however, did explain that many countries we have visited in SE Asia had similar problems with their schools. Upon collecting all necessary information and presenting it to our board of directors, we will share more information on this wonderful and hopeful project! What I can tell you now, is that the people of Laos are amazing, caring and generous human beings. Phouva’s family, friends, villagers, the local police and the educators within the community took great care of us. I will let Asad expand upon that whole notion in our next blog.

Until then, I encourage everyone to get out & take a daring chance in traveling the world. You will see and experience so much of humanity and extraordinary beauty within each country, culture and religion. Open your heart to the differences that make each continent a bountiful and glorious adventure. Feel the hearth of foreign lands under your feet, breath the air that some of the worlds greatest humans beings have breathed, your life will be forever changed.

Love and gratitude to all,
Olivia

Like a proud father.

Like a proud father I share this update!

To watch a seed blossom to a beautiful and robust flower, to watch a wave tower above the surf and crash into the sand as the passerby’s gaze in wonderment. This has been my day, my journey.

We took a familiar ride with our top man and Project Coordinator Mr. Sim Sao to visit our old friends at Mr. Togh’s school just outside the hustle and frantic pace of Siem Reap. It had almost been exactly 365 days since Olivia, a few hundred school children and I had spent a weekend carrying rocks by worn hand and weaved basket to set the foundation for their new school. A foundation set in belief and immense optimism for the future.
As we sputtered up the dusty side road to the school it was becoming evident in the distance there was new flag of Cambodia amongst the sun worn prayer flags. As we turned right it proudly shimmered before us… Mr. Togh’s school stood proud just like our greeting from Mr. Togh himself. Purposeful, confident, focused! Olivia and I were gushing with exuberance. But this moment is only half the moment…..
As Sao parked the Tuk Tuk and we walked through the iron gate into the center of the school, I heard a voice commanding the attention of his young students in the distance. As I walked towards the voice it became clearer before me who commanded the attention of the future leaders and spirit of Cambodia. Mr. Chumno! Yes Mr. Chumno, Project Enlighten 2008 University Scholarship recipient. I froze in amazement as Mr. Chumno worked the young class with precision and vigor. I had always respect an instructor that projected with passion! His passion was more than evident. I refrained from grabbing my camera or camcorder, I wanted to savoir this organic moment!

It is treasured moments like these that make the whole experience and process to get to this point worth the journey!

Moments like these cannot come to fruition without a great cast of TEAM members. Ronnie and Thavy Yimsut, Chann Noun, Lisa McCoy, Matt Keys, Riva Duncan, Mike Caroll, Mr. Sim Sao and so important in this process is our Education Coordinator in Cambodia Mrs. Gail Anderson, who has shined bright with hope and optimism with our first 3 scholarship recipients, Ms. Chantrea, Mr. Chumno, Ms. Narett.


A few more updates:

We were very excited to share almost 100 new books for Mr. Togh’s new library generously donated from Jenny Bennett from Quincy, California. It was an exciting moment watching the teacher’s tear into the well-wrapped box. Smiles and wonderment surfaced as one of the teachers asked about the local Quincy newspapers that were used for packing material. As he scanned the adverts for automobiles and asked, “Can everyone in America afford this”? It was an ad for a Ford F-350 at over $30,000.
Thank you so much Jenny, the books were one of the most precious gifts!