Sunday, September 12, 2010

VDCA and the Amazing Mr. Togh

In addition to the ancient temples, there is a wonderful, magical place in Siem Reap.  It is called the Volunteer Development Children's Association school (www.vdca-cambodia.org).

From the website:    "The school functions as a supplementary school to the public school system for the majority of the children.  Some students, however, are orphans or come from families who cannot afford the monthly fee ($1.50 US) for public schools.  The school was first established in 2005 by two Buddhist Monks, Rathana Nn and Togh Main, who wanted to give some of Siem Reap's poorest children a future by offering free education and advice.  Within just four years, VDCA has evolved from two basic thatch classrooms to a large and colorful school with more than 600 students who enjoy learning and playing here.  This achievement was only possible with the help of numerous volunteers and supporters worldwide.  Our current school opened in August 2008 and offers free English classes and other courses to children and young adults.  Regular teacher trainings and our international volunteer program constantly improve the quality of the education provided."


The part about this being a supplemental school is important; for the poorest children, whose families cannot afford regular school, this is the only formal education they may get.  But here's the crazy part; many of the children CHOOSE to go to VDCA in addition to regular school.  They spend evenings at VDTC during the school year, and when they are on summer break from regular school they still attend VDCA.  

On Tuesday, August 24, we met with the Director, a passionate man with a beautiful soul, Mr Togh (pronounced Toing).  As Sao drives us up to the school we are dumbstruck with the campus.  It is large and beautiful.  The last time we were here, they were still using the thatch-roofed buildings with dilapidated desks and chairs.  There wasn't nearly enough space for all the children.  Many of them sat on their bicycle handlebars, using the seat as a desk, outside the building.  We walk through the gates and immediately see the brightly painted murals on the outsides of the buildings.  The colors are vivid and look perfect.  We see the Project Enlighten logo on one wall next to the library (PE provided many of the books and helped construct one of the buildings).  Mr. Togh comes out of the office and warmly shakes our hands, his warm smile welcoming us to his school.  Mr. Togh is no longer a monk;  he is married now with a son, Zachary.  But he continues to personify the Buddhist ideals and has included spirituality, responsibility, and decision-making for positive change in the curriculum.  

First he takes us to the new art room.  It is a small open-air room, the inside walls covered in paintings.  Some have been done by the teacher, but most were painted by students.  The colors are brilliant, the talent amazing.  Two young men working at the table smile shly at us.  Mr. Togh explains that they are hoping to sell these at a guesthouse where he also works.  They will not put prices on them but will allow the patrons to pay what they think they are worth.  I think this is a great idea.  The paintings show scenes from the temples, the countryside, portraits, and even some modern images.  

On to the computer room.  It is tiny by my standards -- maybe 3x5 meters.  Eight desktop computers fill the room, and every one is occupied by a student.  They are learning Excel spreadsheets.  The students are serious and intent on their learning.  We don't want to interrupt, so we move on the the library.

It is another small room, maybe 5x5 meters.  One boy is sitting with a guitar on his lap.  Another is reading.  The librarian, Mr. Voty, quickly jumps up from his desk and welcomes us to his library.  He is obviously very proud of it and gives us a tour, explaining each shelf of books and his check-out system.  The book spines are color coded for difficulty.  There is a section of dictionaries and thesaurus in all different languages.  Teachers at the VDCA and those studying to become teachers have their own section to help with lessons plans, etc.  One small section has short stories, and I spy a couple of Harry Potter books!  The books are in many languages -- English, Khmer, Japanese, Thai, German.  Mr Voty's check-out system is simple yet effective.  Students are allowed to check out books for 3 days.  If they are over-due two times, they lose their check-out privileges but can continue to read books in the library.  I ask Mr. Voty if he needs more books.  Surprisingly to me he says, no.  He has enough for now.  

Mr. Togh sits down next to the boy with the guitar.  He asks him to tell us a little about himself and says he will then sing a song for us.  The boy tells us he is 17 years old and is from a very poor family.  He lives with an uncle in Siem Reap.  He was given guitar lessons by a Scottish volunteer and wants to sing a song for us.  He apologizes ahead of time as a string is missing on the guitar.  He opens his song book and begins to sing "Don't Worry" by Bob Marley.  His voice is clear and lovely, and he nails the melody.  The guitar is badly out of tune, but we barely notice.  It is so beautiful I choke up.  When he finishes we clap loudly, thanking him and telling him how much we liked the song.  He is clearly pleased and little embarrassed.  We talk a bit more and then ask him to play another song.  He turns the pages until he finds "Proud Mary."  Again, in his sweet and true voice, he has the melody completely down.  His pronunciation is great -- "Rollin'.  Rollin'.  Rollin' on the river."  As long as I live, I will think of this moment every time I hear that song.  Finally, he concludes with his favorite song, "Keep me in Your Heart" by the late, great Warren Zevon.  I can barely hold back the tears.  

We thank Mr. Voty and this young man profusely for showing us the library and singing songs.  Matt and I walk outside, our hearts bursting with joy.  A very small girl comes up to us and says "Hello."  She introduces herself and asks us where we are from.  We tell her the US and tell her our names.  Her face lights up and she says, "Matt!  Asad told me you were coming to Cambodia.  I am so happy to meet you both! I am Srey Leap!"  Srey Leap has a reputation at VDCA for being one of the most voracious readers of the students.  She is outgoing and obviously bright.  She tells us she will be a senior in high school this year and hopes to go to college after she graduates.  He smile is truly contagious, and I'm overwhelmed by the smart young woman.  We then meet another young woman who is attending teacher's school in Siem Reap.  She has a passion that burns inside and emanates from her.  She feels strongly that good teachers are needed in the rural villages where education is key to overcoming poverty.  Her dream is to go back to her poor village and teach young children.  She uses VDCA to supplement her studies at the teacher's college.  She feels that a teaching degree from the University would better educate and prepare her to be a successful teacher.  

We formally sit down with several students Mr. Togh has selected to talk about the PE scholarship program.  We ask the young teacher-to-be to sit in with us.  The other students can barely get a word in, she is so excited about her dream and wants to tell us everything!  Some of the students are shy, some speak out a bit more.  They all apologize for their poor English, but we tell them that their English is much better than our Khmer, and that they are doing fine.  Sao and Mr. Togh help translate a bit, and Mr. Togh then summarizes our program to the students in Khmer.  He tells them that we don't take bribes (The government and many organizations in Cambodia are very corrupt), but scholarships are earned through good applications, good interviews, and a bit of luck.  He does a great job.  

We leave, pausing for a photo with Mr. Togh in front of the PE logo.  My heart is light yet I'm on the verge of tears.  I'm so overwhelmed by the hope and promise of brighter futures within these walls.  This is where peace comes from; this is the future of this young country and its citizens. This is a magical place.  

Peace.  Respect.  Gratitude.
Riva & Matt

Friday, August 20, 2010

Meeting with Students

We awake early after a pretty good night's sleep.  The sky is blessedly cloudy as we walk to the Blue Pumpkin breakfast.  Hopefully the clouds will stay all day and give us a break from the heat.

Sao meets us at the Blue Pumpkin and tells us that he has set it up for us to meet with our scholarship students at Bill's and Jill's house at 1100.  As we eat our Western breakfast Sao takes off and promises to pick us up in front at 1030.  We have some time so we walk through the old market.  The smells are sharp and strong as we walk through the food area.  Fruit, meat, and fish are available.  Open bags of rice line the aisles. This is where most of the Khmer people buy their food. It is crowded yet no one seems to mind the flash from my camera.  The other sections are full of "tourist" ware.  There are t-shirts, skirts, silk scarves, jewelry, carved Buddhas.   The vendors half-heartedly ask us if we want to buy.  The last time we were here they seemed more aggressive.  The poor world economy reaches everyone.  The final section is household goods for Khmer; diapers, cleaning products, brooms, medicine.

We leave the market and just walk around old town.  We walk by the guesthouse where we stayed in 2008.  It has completely changed.  It has a different name and looks newer.  Signs promise WiFi and showers.  We only paid $12/night back in 2008, we wonder how much it costs now.

We circle back to the Blue Pumpkin to wait for Sao and soon realize that standing stationary courts beggars and street vendors.  Many of them are missing limbs from the land mines.  I want to help all of them but realize I can't.  We buy a book from one man who is missing a leg and an arm.  We in our good clothes and with full bellies are relieved when Sao pulls up in the tuk tuk.

We head to Bill's and Jill's house through an area we've never been.  Fewer tourists yet many vendors catering to the Khmer.  Naked toddlers and dogs line the street among the food carts and gasoline sellers.

We arrive at their beautiful rental house where Channy is already waiting.  We have not met her as she is in the second group of students who were selected in 2009.  She is quick to smile and we greet her with the traditional som pas -- hands together as if in prayer and a slight bow.  She is studying accounting.  Soon the others arrive -- Sok Kheng is a gentle young man studying information technology.  He has an exam tonight so has brought his book to study.  His English is very good.  Chantrea is next.  She has just finished her exams and will graduate if she passed.  She studied accounting and currently works at the Khmer Kitchen where we ate the other night.  She is working on improving her English.  She and Channy are very close and are constantly holding hands and sitting close together.  Khemra is a strong young woman who is studying civil engineering.  Her speech is very quiet at first, and we have to lean forward to hear her.  Her English is good and she asks a lot of questions.  As she gets more comfortable with us she speaks more loudly.  Chantrea tells us that Sina is working untill 1200 but will join us when she gets off work.  Sina wants to be a lawyer.

It is good having Sao there with us.  He knows them all and can translate when necessary.  Yet he encourages them to speak to us in English, telling them that is the only way they will get better at it.  We ask how their jobs are going; they all work long hours, nearly full time.  And, as a requirement of our scholarship, they must volunteer at the place of their choice at least 5 hours per week.  We tell them how happy we are and how proud of them we are.  I make sure Sao translates this into Khmer as I want to make sure they know this.

The highlight of the meeting is when we get on Skype with Asad and Olivia back in Flagstaff, AZ.  Bill and Jill just arrived with Naret, one of our students, and Sophary, who works at the Land Mine Museum with Bill.  Video skype is a big hit with all as we laugh and wave, continuously moving the laptop around so everyone can be seen.  The temperature is only in the 50s (11 C) back in Flagstaff and Sophary is in a chair with blankets upon her.  The kids back here can't believe how cold it is and laugh at Sophary.  Sina shows up while we are on Skype and gets to say hi to everyone in Flagstaff.  It is a fun time and a good way to end the meeting.   It was good for Matt and me as well, as we miss not having Asad and Olivia here in Siem Reap.
Peace,
Riva & Matt

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Back to Cambodia

As we fly over Siem Reap the country side looks much differently than the last time we were here.  In January of 2008 it was the dry season.  The rice fields and pastures were brown and dry.  The air was filled with smoke, acrid and sharp, from burning fields and burning rubbish.  The sky was hazy with a layer of pollution.  Now, as we fly over, the fields are lush and green.  The rice paddies are full of brown water.  The air is clean and the sky full of clouds.  As we get off the plane the air is clean, but the heat hits us like a  baseball bat.

After clearing customs we walk outside and there is our good friend Sao waiting for us.  He waves his arms, his smile wide and easy.  We wave back and walk towards him.  I always have to resist the urge to pull him into a giant hug.  But that is inappropriate in the Khmer culture.  Instead I grab his hand in both of mine and bend from the waist in a show of respect.  He and Matt shake hands, too.  We are so happy to be here!

"Home or lunch?" Sao asks.  "Green House!" I say.  It was our favorite restaurant the last time we came.  We load up Sao's tuk tuk with our bags and climb in.  Soon we are heading towards the city.


We are struck by the number of new hotels that have been built since our last trip.  Many line the road; most look quite empty.  Bad timing with the economy.

Soon Sao pulls into the Green House.  The host probably does not remember us, but we remember his beautiful smile and impeccable manners.  We order a couple of Angkor beers first thing.  Matt and I are so travel weary that first I knock over glass of beer, and then Matt knocks both his fork and knife off the table.  But the food is delicious, just as we remember.  I eat a banana leaf salad with chicken and fresh lime.  it is perfect for the warm weather.  Matt eats fresh spring rolls.  We are happy.

After lunch Sao takes us to the market to buy fruit for our hosts.  This is a traditional Khmer gift when visiting or staying with a family.  We also buy bottled water and an internet card.  The water is unsafe to even brush our teeth in, so bottled water is a necessity.

Finally we make our way to the Yimsut house.  Our friend and advisor, Ronnie Yimsut, works for the US Forest Service in Milwaukee.  He owns a home with his cousin Yarran and Yarran's wife, Sa Eng here in Siem Reap.  Ronnie has two suites on the third floor, and he lets all PE volunteers stay there if they are available.  We are humbled by his generosity.  We pull up to the house and get out Sa Eng greets us warmly and calls to Yarran.  Soon their daughter, Thavy, comes out and they grab all our bags and start carrying them up the stairs to the third floor.

The room is wonderfully cool after the oppressive heat.  Everyone tells us it's not usually this hot.  Dark clouds to the east tease us with the chance of cooling rain.  Sao translates for us as we talk with our hosts.  The language barrier is difficult at times, we are glad Sao is there to help.  His English continues to improve as we notice it is much better than the last time we were here.  Sa Eng tells us that Arun, a young woman who lives with them, wants to meet us and will come up to our suite when she gets home from work at the Children's Hospital at 5:00.  That give us two hours to rest and unpack.

We hear thunder rumbling and go out onto the large balcony.  The air has cooled, and dark clouds race across the sky.  Lightning flashes.  The wind picks up and the trees sway.  We notice the soccer (football) practice in the field near the school continues despite the lightning.  Workers building a second story onto a house nearby also keep working.  Finally, the cool rain begins to fall, the sound on the metal roofs like someone dropping dried beans.  Matt and I sit and watch the storm, enjoying the fresh, cool air.

We go back inside and try to NOT fall asleep.  It is 4:00 pm in Siem Reap but our bodies are still on US Eastern time where it is 5:00 am.  Our goal is to make it to 9:00 pm before sleeping.  It will be tough.  We decide to go back outside and sit at the table on the balcony.

At about 5:30 we hear footsteps coming up the stairs.  It is Sa Eng and Arun.  They sit with us at the table and we get to know Arun.  Her English is excellent and we are soon impressed by this young woman.  She loves working at the Children's Hospital and wants to someday manage this or another hospital.  She is bright, funny, and we enjoy talking to her.  She wants to go with us to visit the BTC site on Sunday, her day off.  She and Sa Eng discuss the logistics and soon have the day planned.  The she tells us that Sa Eng and Yarran want to take us to dinner tonight.  They ask us what kind of food we like, and we tell them we like Khmer food, any kind.  We plan to meet downstairs at 7 to go to Khmer Kitchen for dinner.

At 7 we go downstairs.  Arun is there with a friend of hers.  He works for immigration, and I swear he stamped my passport at the airport!  We get into their car and drive to the restaurant.  It is packed with both Khmer and foreigners.  Arun recommends fried morning glory and long bean salad.  We order those, and her friend orders big bottles of Angkor beer.  He pours beer for us all and we toast.  "Cheers!" they all say which surprises me.  There are also fish cakes with a spicy sauce, fresh spring roles, sweet and sour chicken, minced pork, and BBQ ribs.  And of course perfectly cooked rice.  So much food!  It is so good.  It is a great evening and we enjoy ourselves immensely.

When we get back to the Yimsut suites it is about 8:30.  We thank our generous hosts and walk up to the suite.  It is 9:00 by the time we crawl into bed -- we have hit our goal.  I post a couple photos on facebook turn out the light.  Good first day in Siem Reap.

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Race for Dreams – Changing lives mile by mile!






In a continuing quest to race all of the 4 Deserts and to complete an
Ultra Marathon on all 7 continents, Kenneth Perry is heading to
Australia to run a seven-day, six-stage, 155 mile footrace across the
great Outback of Australia.

Kenneth Perry is an Air Tactical Officer and chief instructor/check
airman for the Aerial Supervision Module program with the U.S.D.I.
Bureau of Land Management. Previously he was a Hotshot and
Smokejumper, spending 16 years fighting fire all over the United
States and Canada. A lifelong runner, Ken started running long
distance events after recovering from multiple back surgeries; he
discovered that endurance events were his passion.

Kenneth and Project Enlighten (PE) have teamed up to work together to
raise funds for PE programs in SE Asia. Kenneth is graciously using
his passion to create opportunities for the children we serve.

Kenneth's motivation and inspiration, for his long runs, are
humanitarian efforts across the globe. The thought of helping others,
brings meaning to every foot step forward and every mile completed.
What's each mile worth to the young children who will learn something
new or rise from poverty with each mile Kenneth completes? What is the
value of a mile worth to you?

Can we help Kenneth fuel his goal? What are you willing to pledge?

* 25 cents per mile?
* 50 cents per mile?
* $1 per mile?

With a simple donation of even $25.00, you will help change the lives
of people living in poverty, forever. What kind of legacy shall we
leave, not only for our children, but children across the world?

Please make a pledge!

http://www.firstgiving.com/projectenlighten



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-ZshyEA4gY