Back to Cambodia

As we fly over Siem Reap the country side looks much differently than the last time we were here.  In January of 2008 it was the dry season.  The rice fields and pastures were brown and dry.  The air was filled with smoke, acrid and sharp, from burning fields and burning rubbish.  The sky was hazy with a layer of pollution.  Now, as we fly over, the fields are lush and green.  The rice paddies are full of brown water.  The air is clean and the sky full of clouds.  As we get off the plane the air is clean, but the heat hits us like a  baseball bat.

After clearing customs we walk outside and there is our good friend Sao waiting for us.  He waves his arms, his smile wide and easy.  We wave back and walk towards him.  I always have to resist the urge to pull him into a giant hug.  But that is inappropriate in the Khmer culture.  Instead I grab his hand in both of mine and bend from the waist in a show of respect.  He and Matt shake hands, too.  We are so happy to be here!

"Home or lunch?" Sao asks.  "Green House!" I say.  It was our favorite restaurant the last time we came.  We load up Sao's tuk tuk with our bags and climb in.  Soon we are heading towards the city.

We are struck by the number of new hotels that have been built since our last trip.  Many line the road; most look quite empty.  Bad timing with the economy.

Soon Sao pulls into the Green House.  The host probably does not remember us, but we remember his beautiful smile and impeccable manners.  We order a couple of Angkor beers first thing.  Matt and I are so travel weary that first I knock over glass of beer, and then Matt knocks both his fork and knife off the table.  But the food is delicious, just as we remember.  I eat a banana leaf salad with chicken and fresh lime.  it is perfect for the warm weather.  Matt eats fresh spring rolls.  We are happy.

After lunch Sao takes us to the market to buy fruit for our hosts.  This is a traditional Khmer gift when visiting or staying with a family.  We also buy bottled water and an internet card.  The water is unsafe to even brush our teeth in, so bottled water is a necessity.

Finally we make our way to the Yimsut house.  Our friend and advisor, Ronnie Yimsut, works for the US Forest Service in Milwaukee.  He owns a home with his cousin Yarran and Yarran's wife, Sa Eng here in Siem Reap.  Ronnie has two suites on the third floor, and he lets all PE volunteers stay there if they are available.  We are humbled by his generosity.  We pull up to the house and get out Sa Eng greets us warmly and calls to Yarran.  Soon their daughter, Thavy, comes out and they grab all our bags and start carrying them up the stairs to the third floor.

The room is wonderfully cool after the oppressive heat.  Everyone tells us it's not usually this hot.  Dark clouds to the east tease us with the chance of cooling rain.  Sao translates for us as we talk with our hosts.  The language barrier is difficult at times, we are glad Sao is there to help.  His English continues to improve as we notice it is much better than the last time we were here.  Sa Eng tells us that Arun, a young woman who lives with them, wants to meet us and will come up to our suite when she gets home from work at the Children's Hospital at 5:00.  That give us two hours to rest and unpack.

We hear thunder rumbling and go out onto the large balcony.  The air has cooled, and dark clouds race across the sky.  Lightning flashes.  The wind picks up and the trees sway.  We notice the soccer (football) practice in the field near the school continues despite the lightning.  Workers building a second story onto a house nearby also keep working.  Finally, the cool rain begins to fall, the sound on the metal roofs like someone dropping dried beans.  Matt and I sit and watch the storm, enjoying the fresh, cool air.

We go back inside and try to NOT fall asleep.  It is 4:00 pm in Siem Reap but our bodies are still on US Eastern time where it is 5:00 am.  Our goal is to make it to 9:00 pm before sleeping.  It will be tough.  We decide to go back outside and sit at the table on the balcony.

At about 5:30 we hear footsteps coming up the stairs.  It is Sa Eng and Arun.  They sit with us at the table and we get to know Arun.  Her English is excellent and we are soon impressed by this young woman.  She loves working at the Children's Hospital and wants to someday manage this or another hospital.  She is bright, funny, and we enjoy talking to her.  She wants to go with us to visit the BTC site on Sunday, her day off.  She and Sa Eng discuss the logistics and soon have the day planned.  The she tells us that Sa Eng and Yarran want to take us to dinner tonight.  They ask us what kind of food we like, and we tell them we like Khmer food, any kind.  We plan to meet downstairs at 7 to go to Khmer Kitchen for dinner.

At 7 we go downstairs.  Arun is there with a friend of hers.  He works for immigration, and I swear he stamped my passport at the airport!  We get into their car and drive to the restaurant.  It is packed with both Khmer and foreigners.  Arun recommends fried morning glory and long bean salad.  We order those, and her friend orders big bottles of Angkor beer.  He pours beer for us all and we toast.  "Cheers!" they all say which surprises me.  There are also fish cakes with a spicy sauce, fresh spring roles, sweet and sour chicken, minced pork, and BBQ ribs.  And of course perfectly cooked rice.  So much food!  It is so good.  It is a great evening and we enjoy ourselves immensely.

When we get back to the Yimsut suites it is about 8:30.  We thank our generous hosts and walk up to the suite.  It is 9:00 by the time we crawl into bed -- we have hit our goal.  I post a couple photos on facebook turn out the light.  Good first day in Siem Reap.