Early December 2008
As we walk the streets of Siem Reap it is noticeably quieter these days. The economic crisis has left not one stone unturned, even here in Southeast Asia. The massive rush of tuk-tuks, trucks, bicycles and pedestrians that packed the roads in previous years has ebbed. To an untrained eye, it would seem as if everything is normal. Our eyes see empty Tuk-tuks line the streets as their drivers meekly ask the small but steady stream of tourists if they need rides as they meander by. It seems as if there is a quiet desperation in voices and tearful longing in their eyes. Of all places traveled, my heart hurts the most for those who live in poverty here, in this beautiful part of the world. I know there are many who are suffering back home in the United States, but for whatever reason I don’t feel that the desperation runs as deep as it does in the souls of the people here in Southeast Asia.

There is a part of me that knows, as many in the U.S. know, that if all else fails and we hit rock bottom financially, we have social assistance in the form of many government programs. If we become unemployed, the government will give us a small stipend to help us get back on our feet. If we need shelter or go hungry, there are supplemental Welfare Programs for qualifying individuals. There are even programs that will give families basic food supplies to keep bellies full, I know this all too well, as I was a child who grew up in this system for several years. I remember standing in long welfare lines with my mother, to receive blocks of cheddar cheese, loaves of bread and powdered non-fat milk. We were modern America’s beggars, 21st Century survivors of the unpleasant circumstances of third-rate poverty. We lived on re-hydrated dried canned foods and the basic sundries that could be afforded. When I was younger, I couldn’t imagine anyone poorer, though my soul felt rich with my mother’s optimism. She utilized the government support while getting her Associates Degree, so she could better provide for her five children. She was able to rise above adversity. I feel most of the world is doubtful of poverty being so extreme in the United States but witnessing it, first hand, the dire poverty left me bewildered.

There are rural places all over the United States in which people live on hardly anything, Gary District Number Nine was one of these places in 1996. It was just outside of Welch, West Virginia in which I saw one of the most extreme forms of poverty, in the U.S. Small shacks and simply built homes lined the creek-side, simple trenches between the dwellings wreaked of raw sewage that spewed from the bowels of the structures and ran down to the creek. It was the same creek that the children swam in and families fished from for food. Those who were considered “better off” occupied nicer homes; many homes were left abandoned after the collapse of the coal mining industry. At that point in my life I had never seen the happiness and beauty of poverty before, nor such harsh conditions. Despite the odds delivered, people were inherently happy with the little they had, not wanting for more but extremely grateful for what was received. The community rallied together to support those who were worst off by providing vegetables, fruit, canned goods and boxed food. I was working with AmeriCorps*NCCC during this time, helping in many ways. One of our projects was to make improvements on homes that needed insulation for the winter…I remember there being basic shacks with nothing more than carpet covered hearth floors, thin boards for walls and tin roofs. These are homes I didn’t expect to be in Modern day America, but there they were. The children ran around covered in dirt, half-naked and unsupervised. Their parents sat waiting for whatever help they could receive, oblivious or living in fear of opportunities that lay elsewhere. We were there to help; we were a volunteer organization that was there to serve the community with compassion and respect. Americans helping poverty ridden America.

Sound familiar? Poverty has no defining lines. It is everywhere. Extremes are found in every reach of the planet, though many do not have the support that we have in the U.S.A. Project Enlighten is trying to help build this kind of support for communities around the world. Our purpose is to stimulate a self-help process in communities that have hardship without changing cultural identities. We want to change an ethos of receiving simple charity by inspiring others to become more involved in education, community volunteerism and to encourage them to learn to stand on their own. It's about more than just education, it's about finding a way to survive and prosper beyond education. As the economic crisis comes to a great crescendo, I wonder what the impact will be on the countries that have become so reliant on international support. There are so many that are in an even more fragile state than most western countries. Perhaps there will be a much different story to share next year.

Arriving in Pakse, Laos was done with more ease than I imagined it would be. For $35 dollars, a passport photo and a properly filled out visa form, an American can obtain a 30 day Visa on arrival at the international airports in Laos. Pakse was an even quieter place than Siem Reap and as we made our way to the taxi counter, it was evident that our stay would be much different in this sister country. We set out for the Pakse Hotel in the central part of town where we enjoyed sticky rice, laap (meat cooked and served minced with lime juice, an arrangement of herbs, peppers and local spices) and Beer Lao dark. As we settled in to the slower pace of the country, we contemplated what the countryside would be like. We were anxious for our bus-ride north to the Khammouane Province. We were looking forward to exploring a part of Lao we had yet to travel to.

Our friend, Phouva, a fellow Forest Service Firefighter grew up in Navangthai Village in Central Laos. It was in his early teens that he immigrated to the United States of America in search of better education and greater opportunities. In a short period of time, he was able to take command of the English language and move on to graduate from Humboldt University. He seeks to help his home country in whatever way possible, starting with investment in the local education system that he grew up in. His wonderful village is in need of improvements on the school facilities. They have three schools in the area that are in dire need of repair. In one of our meetings, one teacher innocently asked if the schools in America were like theirs. Our honest reply was no, that we hadn’t seen schools so exposed to the elements and lacking libraries in the U.S. We, however, did explain that many countries we have visited in SE Asia had similar problems with their schools. Upon collecting all necessary information and presenting it to our board of directors, we will share more information on this wonderful and hopeful project! What I can tell you now, is that the people of Laos are amazing, caring and generous human beings. Phouva’s family, friends, villagers, the local police and the educators within the community took great care of us. I will let Asad expand upon that whole notion in our next blog.

Until then, I encourage everyone to get out & take a daring chance in traveling the world. You will see and experience so much of humanity and extraordinary beauty within each country, culture and religion. Open your heart to the differences that make each continent a bountiful and glorious adventure. Feel the hearth of foreign lands under your feet, breath the air that some of the worlds greatest humans beings have breathed, your life will be forever changed.

Love and gratitude to all,
Olivia